What else can we say about the city of Cusco, the tiny Andean gem, once the cradle of America’s greatest Empire? During festival seasons, Cusco loves to celebrate the fusion or syncretism of cultures you can see in its architecture, culture, and traditions.
For example, one tradition that reflects the religious devotion of this city is Holy Week and all of its rites. One holiday tradition that Cusqueños love is the “doce platos” (twelve dishes). Every Cusqueñan family eats these delicacies on Good Friday, Holy Thursday, or even Palm Sunday.
The kitchen transforms into a bustling hub of creativity while they make these dishes that honor the memory of Jesus, symbolizing the 12 apostles. This tradition passes down through generations and remains a cherished ritual that blends faith with local flavor.
Join us as we explore the traditions and dishes behind these dishes. Whether you’re a believer or not, we assure you’ll be mouthwatering for the dishes we introduce you to. Let’s dive in!
A Family Tradition with a Dash of History
Imagine a cool morning in a Cusco household where the aroma of freshly ground corn and simmering vegetables mingles with laughter and friendly banter.
In one such home, “Doña Rosa”—an elderly matriarch whose hands have lovingly stirred pots for decades—gathers her children and grandchildren in the kitchen.
With a twinkle in her eye, she exclaims, “Cada plato es un pedacito de historia, ¡y hoy vamos a honrar a cada uno de los doce apóstoles!” (“Each dish is a little piece of history, and today we’re honoring each of the twelve apostles!”)
Her playful tone and heartfelt words remind everyone that in Cusco, family, faith, and food go hand in hand. Cusco grandmothers like “Doña Rosa” reflect the spirit of the twelve dishes: To share with family delicious meals.
The 12 Dishes: A Symphony of Savory and Sweet
Traditionally, the “doce platos” are divided into two equal groups—six savory dishes and six sweet treats. Although recipes vary among families, here’s a look at a common interpretation of these 12 dishes with a few variations that make each family’s celebration unique.
Savory Delights
Lawa de Maíz (Corn Cream)
A velvety cream soup made with sweet corn, milk, and a hint of local spice. In some families, cooks sprinkle grated cheese to elevate its richness. This soup is one of Cusco people’s favorites, and it’s also present eerie time of the year.
Sopa de Lisas
Lisas, or olluco, is a Peruvian tuber popular in the Andes. From olluco, Cusco’s mothers elaborate a delicious soup, featuring a mix of Andean vegetables—potatoes, corn, and chuño (freeze-dried potato)—slow-cooked in a savory broth. Some variations include the addition of eggs or aromatic herbs.
Chupe de Camarones (Shrimp Chowder)
An Arequipa gastronomy specialty, this creamy seafood chowder is also the favorite among Cusqueños.
Using local shrimp, potatoes, and corn, this dish pays homage to the biblical fishermen and is sometimes enriched with a dash of chili.
Pescado Frito o Sudado (Fried or Stewed Fish)
Fresh fish is either fried to a golden crisp or stewed in a tangy tomato sauce. For example, families often choose different types of local fish, keeping the recipe as personal as it is traditional.
Arroz con Mariscos (Seafood Rice)
We have another Peruvian seafood delicacy with Arroz con Mariscos.
This colorful rice dish is loaded with squid, mussels, shrimp, and clams, flavored with local spices and a squeeze of lime for brightness.
Sopa de Quinua
A light yet nourishing soup featuring quinoa—a superfood native to the Andes—combined with fresh vegetables in a gentle broth ideal for high-altitude comfort.
Sweet Sensations
Arroz con Leche (Rice Pudding)
A classic dessert of rice, milk, and cinnamon. Cusqueños and Peruvians love it eat it all the time of year round. Although you’ll find different versions in Latin American countries, you must try the Peruvian one!
Mazamorra Morada
This purple corn pudding is “arroz con leche’s counterpart. People spice this pudding with cloves, cinnamon, pineapple peel, and fruits. Its striking color and unique flavor make it a Holy Week favorite.
Did you know?: Peruvian love mixing arroz con leche and mazamorra, we call it “combinado” or “clasico.” Do you dare to try this bold and delicious combo?
Empanadas Dulces
In almost all of Peru, empanadas are savory with chicken, ham, or meat filling. However, for Cusqueños empanadas are a golden, flaky crust and are often topped with cheerful, colorful sprinkles, adding a special touch that really represents Cusco’s charm!
Suspiros (Little Sighs)
Light, airy meringue treats that melt in your mouth, symbolizing hope and joy after a solemn period. They’re perfect as bite-sized sweets after the meal.
Bizcochuelo (Sponge Cake)
A soft, spongy cake that can be served plain or with a light dusting of powdered sugar. Some families add citrus zest to infuse a fresh note.
Pan Jurka or Pan Costra (Traditional Pastry)
These crusty, small breads—unique to Cusco—are either enjoyed on their own or spread with local cheese or jam, providing a delightful finish to the savory courses.
Variations and Local Touches
Every family in Cusco has its own secret recipes. For instance, some households might add a touch of huacatay—a local herb—to the Sopa de Lisas or introduce a bit of ají for a gentle kick in the seafood rice.
As for the sweet dishes, some families add the appetizing “guisado” which is basically a “peach stew,” using chancaca, cloves, and sweet and juicy peaches.
The traditional “mazamorra de chancaca,” a pudding made of chancaca, a type of Peruvian hardened sugar with spices.
This ancient Peruvian traditional dessert is not popular these days, but if you get the chance to try it, do it! It’s filled with flavor and tradition. The maicillos, tiny savory crusts, are also preferred by many Cusco families.
A Celebration Beyond the Plate
The ritual of preparing and sharing these 12 dishes is about more than food—it’s a celebration of family and cultural identity.
As families gather around the table, they share stories of past Holy Weeks, reminisce about old traditions, and look forward to new memories.
Cooking together becomes an act of love and community, reinforcing the values of patience, tradition, and gratitude. In many Cusqueñan homes, the preparation process itself is a cherished event.
Grandmothers teach children the art of stirring the perfect soup or kneading dough for empanadas, ensuring that the skills and stories are passed down through the generations.
This communal activity transforms a meal into a living history lesson, where every spoonful connects the present with a storied past.
A Feast for the Senses
During Holy Week, Cusco shows its religious side. In the procession of the lord of the tremors (Señor de los temblores) on holy Monday, the historical center, the streets of the city, and the cathedral of Cusco turn into a huge religious party.
Walking through Cusco during Holy Week, one is greeted by an orchestra of aromas—from the earthy scent of corn and quinoa to the sweet allure of cinnamon and fruit stews.
Each dish not only nourishes the body but also tells a story of the region’s diverse agricultural heritage and cultural fusion.
Whether you’re in the Sacred Valley, San Francisco Square, or a recommended bakery in Cusco, give it a try to some of the twelve dishes we showed you!
More than 12 dishes
The tradition of the “doce platos” in Cusco is a vivid example of how food can serve as a bridge between the sacred and the everyday, between history and modernity.
It is a tradition that brings together the family, community, and nature into one delicious and meaningful celebration.
Next time you wander through the historic streets of Cusco during Holy Week, don’t be surprised if you’re invited into a home where the table is set with 12 beautifully crafted dishes.
Take a seat, savor every bite, and let the story of Cusco—one of passion, tradition, and exquisite food—unfold before you.
And, also, keep in mind that these 12 dishes offer an unforgettable culinary journey that nourishes both body and soul. Finally, keep enjoying what Cusco and Peru offer with Viagens Machu Picchu!
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