Cusco, the Andean city and former capital of the Inca Empire, never ceases to amaze. Every step reveals history, tradition, and culture. Scattered in the Plaza de Armas, Cusco’s most iconic square, you will find “Los Portales” (the portals), which offer a glimpse into the city’s colonial past.
These historic portals hold ancient tales and traditions, and house modern attractions worth exploring. Join us as we uncover this cherished piece of Cusco, a source of pride for us “Cusqueños.”
The Portals Importance
As we said before, Cusco’s Plaza de Armas is not just a city square; it’s a living museum where Inca and colonial histories converge. The legendary portals that surrounded it have been the heart of the city’s commerce and social life since the 16th century.
Spanish colonizers built these structures on Inca urban designs. Once, they were bustling markets, workshops, and meetings, and each portal’s name reflects its historical purpose. During the colonial era, these portals symbolized Cusco’s role as the trade hub of the southern Andes.
Goods from Europe, Asia, and the Americas flowed through here, making it a melting pot of cultures. The portals also served as shelters during Cusco’s rainy season. Over the centuries, the portals have endured earthquakes, urban redevelopment, and changes in trade practices.
Some original features are gone, but the remaining structures show Cusco’s resilience and rich heritage. Today, visitors can stroll beneath these arches or portals can imagine the bustling markets of the past while enjoying local crafts, cafés, and shops.
The portals of Cusco are more than architecture; they are a bridge between the city’s Inca roots and colonial legacy that offers a unique glimpse into Peru’s history.
Portal de Carnes
This portal was called the “Inquisition commissary portal”, but it changed its name a long time ago, as these people sold meat in this portal.
You can find it next to the Cathedral, and many scholars say it’s even older than the many buildings around Cusco.
Urban Legend
There’s an ancient urban legend about this portal, both tragic and thought-provoking. It takes us to early Republican Cusco, where Don Ceferino Montes, a well-respected shoemaker, and his devoted daughter, Margarita, lived near the plaza.
People admired Margarita for her strong religious faith; however, Bishop Andrés de Vivanco, a family friend, developed inappropriate feelings for Margarita.
When Don Ceferino had to travel to another town, he felt reassured knowing Margarita would be safe under the Bishop’s watch.
Unfortunately, upon his unexpected return, he found a shocking scene that no father should ever witness. In a moment of anger and despair, Don Ceferino took drastic action against the Bishop. The next day, the local press published a misleading story
They were accusing Ceferino and Margarita of wrongdoing, misrepresenting the bishop as the victim. The community, outraged by the distorted story, responded, which led to a tragic end for both Don Ceferino and Margarita.
According to this legend, that story could be the reason why this portal is called that (meat portal). We invite you to discover the mystery while visiting Cusco and the plaza!
Portal de Harinas
Originally, the Spanish called it Portal del Mármol de Carbajal, named after Don Francisco de Carbajal, a well-known figure in history. He faced a tough fate after his defeat by Licenciado Don Pedro de la Gasca at the battle of Jaquijahuana.
After Carvajal’s death, the lively market women of the Plaza Mayor gave it the friendly name we use today—Portal de Harinas. As we said before, a long time ago, there was a market in the area of the plaza.
So, this portal got its name because it used to be a bustling spot where merchants sold sacks of flour along the walls.
People used to sell maize, chuño, beans, and even chicha de jora there. “The flour portal is next to Procuradores, one of Cusco’s most iconic streets.
Portal de Panes
“The Bread Portal” has a rich history that began as Kcasana Huasi, built on the ruins of the palace of Inca Pachacutec. Later, the conquistador Francisco Pizarro used this site as his home and even as a place to hold his enemies.
The portal received its current name because it became a beloved spot for selling various types of bread, especially enjoyed by the Mercedarian community. Over time, people also called it “Portal de la Bofetada” (The slap portal) due to a well-known incident.
One morning, Father Orriamún, a Franciscan friar, was at a bread stall when a young woman asked him for just a “real” (a small amount) of bread.
Unfortunately, the friar dismissed her request rudely. At that moment, the corregidor, Benito Suárez de Carbajal, noticed the young woman. He stepped in and kindly asked the friar to give her the bread.
When the friar refused, the corregidor slapped him so hard that he fell to the ground. The corregidor then took the young woman away by the arm.
Enraged, Father Orriamún cursed the corregidor, wishing him a swift and terrible death. Shortly after, Vicente Corbalan, a carpenter, brutally murdered the corregidor.
Portal de Confiturías
The Portal de la Confituría, or the “Confectionery Portal,” has an interesting history! It was once called Portal de Fonderías.
In those days, it served as a gathering spot for people in need and market vendors seeking tasty, affordable meals.
The lively stalls offered simple dishes, like fried animal organs. Later on, during Bishop Ocón’s time, the portal received a lovely new name, Portal de la Confituría. This was in honor of a remarkable free Black woman named María.
She made a home there and began selling her delicious “turrones,” a type of nougat and a central piece in Peruvian traditional desserts.
Although she offered other sweets, the turrones were people’s favorite. This portal became especially popular during the Corpus Christi celebrations, as many people flocked to enjoy her tasty treats.
This helped the new name stick and added to the charm of the place! You can find this portal in front of Cusco’s cathedral, between Espaderos and Calle del Medio Streets.
Portal de Comercio
The portal got its name from the shops opened by Jewish and Spanish merchants that offered wonderful imported goods, like beautiful fabrics from Segovia and the famous Castilla, both important Spanish cities. Many women from the lower classes really appreciated these items.
Later, during the Republican era, it earned the nickname “Portal de los Ropavejeros” (Portal of Secondhand Dealers).
This was because it turned into a lively marketplace for secondhand clothing and other treasures, which makes its name quite fitting!
Portal de la Compañía
Once called the Portal of Tailors, this area got its name from the tailors who worked here before the Jesuit Temple opened.
The temple housed fifty friars who lived in the three cloisters of a large convent. Jesuit architects and priests, Pietro and Ludovico Maieroni, designed and built it.
You can find this portal between Avenida El Sol and Loreto Streets. It has a historical charm and mysteries tied to its Jesuit roots.
Portal de Carrizos
Named as such since colonial times, the shop owners located in this arcade would gather large reeds and wood called maguey, which were highly sought after by fireworks makers and sculptors. We also like to share a legend about this portal.
Portal Carrizos and the Selenque’s Tale
Selenque was a wealthy heir of Spanish descent who enjoyed a bohemian lifestyle in a lovely house on Loreto Street and near Portal Carrizos.
In 1619, his carefree life changed: He fell in love with Lucinda, the beautiful daughter of Doña Josefa Gorriberichea.
Selenque tried hard to win Lucinda’s heart, but she seemed unaware of his feelings—until one brave act changed everything.
During one religious procession, the image wobbled dangerously on the Belen Bridge. Selenque stepped in, stabilizing the platform and preventing a disaster.
The city admired his bravery, and this courageous act finally caught Lucinda’s attention. Soon, they began to plan their wedding.
However, Selenque was troubled by strange dreams and warnings from a Franciscan friar. The Jesuits pressured him to marry in their church, but he chose to respect Lucinda’s wish to wed at the San Francisco Temple.
After a visit with Lucinda one night, Selenque was attacked by demons and ghosts in the Jesuit church. An angel intervened to save him, but the experience left him shaken.
Tragically, he passed away hours later, leaving a will that surprisingly bequeathed his fortune to the Jesuits.
Lucinda’s family, heartbroken, soon returned to Spain. Today, Portal Carrizos is a beautiful reminder of Selenque’s story, a tale of love, bravery, and Cusco’s rich history.
Portal de Belén
The last portal is named after the Virgin of Bethlehem (Virgen de Belén). She became the city’s patroness in 1645, a decision that brought joy to the local community. Before this, the ecclesiastical council had suggested honoring the Virgin of Guadalupe.
However, the secular council and the local residents believed strongly in honoring the Virgin of Bethlehem instead and even took their concerns to Bishop Juan Alonso Bocón.
In a meeting, the bishop decided to honor the Virgin of Bethlehem, recognizing her as the oldest and most beloved figure.
When the community learned of this decision, they celebrated with great enthusiasm! Festivities included fireworks, dances, and many fun activities.
Don Infonso de Ganderias, who owned a nearby manor, proudly placed a sign by his door in the arcade that read, “This arcade belongs to Bethlehem.”
This gesture helped the arcade earn its charming name, Portal de Belén. You can find this portal just on the left side of the Cathedral
Conclusion
As you can see, in Cusco and its surroundings, you can find several stories and legends on every corner. By visiting Cusco, you can unveil these and more fascinating tales that the imperial city still hides.
When in Cusco, take a walk to all these 8 portals to discover what they can offer in the present day: From shops to jewelry, you can take a little piece of Cusco’s historic center.
Finally, don’t forget that Viagens Machu Picchu can help you out on your trip to Cusco and Peru. Why don’t you contact us and ask your questions about taking a trip to Peru?
Feel free to do it, our specialists will explain to you everything you need to know about our packages, deals, and more. We’re waiting for you!
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