In Huanchaco, on the northern Peruvian coast, near the city of Trujillo, an ancient invention was born thousands of years ago:
A boat made from reeds would become essential for both fishing and riding the waves. In fact, some of the world’s earliest surfers were from Peru.
These handcrafted vessels forged a deep connection between their riders and the ocean, a tradition that has endured for more than 3,000 years and continues today.
They are called caballitos de totora, or “totora reed horses.” Built by the Moche and later other coastal cultures, these boats allowed people to venture into the sea to fish, trade, and—whether intentionally or not—catch waves back to shore.
In this article, we’ll explore the history of the caballitos de totora, their construction, cultural significance, and the reasons why they remain a living tradition of Peru’s coastal heritage. Let’s dive in then!
Origins and Use
Mochica, or Moche culture, originated these ships, and later, the Chimu also used them. Through their art and ceramics, it has been proven that the Moche highly valued these boats thanks to their lively depictions.
The Moche people skillfully used caballitos de totora for both fishing and surfing. They crafted paddles from Guayaquil reed, which helped them ride the waves back to shore.
For longer journeys, they built larger boats. Additionally, they designed special boards called “alaias” or “olos” just for enjoying the waves.
The main component of these boats is “totora,” a type of reed that grows outside Huanchaco. Locals claim that totra has a lifespan, as it cannot be waterlogged over time.
Therefore, totora reed makers often replace the bad ones. Even today, locals use it. In Huanchaco and its surroundings, people still use it for fishing and surfing. Many restaurants in the area display them at their entrance as decorative pieces.
These robust boats can hold up to 200 kg of cargo while transporting one person, and measure 4.5 to 5 meters long, 1 meter wide, and weigh around 50 kg. The main parts of the boat are called “sons” and “mothers.”
This naming helps us understand the difference between two types of sticks: the stronger ones and the lighter, more flexible ones. These names highlight the important role of the mother pieces at the top, which support the sons.
Additionally, the Caballitos hold great historical importance and are celebrated as Peru’s national Cultural Heritage. They represent a rich culture that has been connected to ocean navigation for thousands of years.
Building and Techniques
1. Raw Material
Firstly, farmers in Huanchaco grow totora reeds (Schoenoplectus californicus) in semi-deep ponds called Huanchaques or Balsares.
After harvesting, they dry the reeds for 20 days before using them.
2. Structure of the Boat
A boat has four main reed bundles:
Two “mothers” – the longer bundles.
Two “children” – shorter but thicker bundles.
The fisherman and helper tie and combine these bundles to form the boat.
3. Assembly Process
Step 1 – Tie the “Mothers”
The fisherman ties the two long bundles with a thin cord called tirana.
He wraps each bundle in the opposite direction so the fibers press tightly together.
Step 2 – Tie the “Children”
He repeats the same process with the two shorter, thicker bundles.
Step 3 – Combine Mothers and Children
The fisherman places the “children” on top of the “mothers.”
He presses down with strength until the bundles form a compact package.
The “mothers” widen slightly, creating space that seems to shelter the “children.”
Step 4 – Build the Sides
The fisherman works on one side first, then the other.
He measures the space called “the box” at the stern, where he will later place the catch and fishing gear.
He makes a second round of tightening with the tirana to keep everything firm.
Step 5 – Shape the Prow
The fisherman ties the tips at the front of the boat.
He shapes them with blows until they curve upward, giving the boat its traditional form.
4. The Final Union (Enganguanada)
Two fishermen join both halves of the boat.
They use a thicker cord called the guangana.
At this stage, they pull as hard as possible to tighten the ropes and secure the boat.
5. Usage and Lifespan
Fishermen mainly use these boats for fishing.
Building one takes 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on skill.
A boat lasts about 15 days to 1 month, depending on how often it goes to sea.
Thanks to its practical design and material, people still used it as a fishing boat. Its curvy form is perfect for riding waves, and its robust design can take up to two people. Likewise, they’re easy to ride for fishermen.
Although they can last about a month, to extend their lifetime, fishermen kindly place them upright on the sand at the end of each day. This helpful practice ensures it dries properly and keeps moisture from building up.
Riding a caballito de totora can be a fun challenge! It takes practice, skill, and a bit of strength to handle the paddle and keep your balance.
The art of building these unique boats and learning to navigate them is something special. Families in Huanchaco, Pimentel, and other towns in Peru.
By sharing this knowledge from one generation to the next, this tradition holds great cultural value for their communities and adds to the charm of these iconic vessels.
Promotion and Tourist Experiences
Every year, Huanchaco holds important water sports contests where caballitos are the main attraction. Professional surfers and experts riding caballitos participate
For instance, this connection between the traditional Peruvian boat and surfing is showcased in the Festivals of the Sea of Huanchaco, where participants can take part in surfing competitions using both caballitos de Totora and traditional boards.
Additionally, since 2002, Huanchaco has held the “ Festival turistico del Caballito de Totora”. This festival boosts tourism and promotes inclusive sports for people with disabilities.
It takes place in the lovely Lambayeque region, especially at the Pimentel beach resort. It offers exciting caballito de totora tournaments for kids, fun bike tours, and lively beach volleyball games. You can also enjoy artistic performances featuring traditional dances and live music.
One of the highlights is the “Olimplaya,” a special beach sports event that welcomes young people of all abilities to join in the fun. We invite everyone to come and be part of this amazing celebration!
A Living Legacy of Peru
On August 23, 2003, the Peruvian government declared the Caballito de Totora a National Cultural Heritage of Peru.
This recognition highlights the Caballito de Totora’s enduring value and legacy—not only for Peru, but for the world. It also gives Peruvians, especially the people of Huanchaco, another reason to feel proud.
So, on your next trip to Peru, make sure to visit Huanchaco. Take in the ocean view, enjoy a fresh ceviche, and ride one of these iconic reed boats. By doing so, you won’t just experience a ride—you’ll be sailing through history itself.
To discover more stories about Peru’s rich culture, traditions, and myths, stay tuned to our blog. At Viagens Machu Picchu, we invite you to experience the real Peru—including the coastal gems of Trujillo and Huanchaco.
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