For those who don’t know, Pisco is a spirit made of grapes, similar to the brandy. Due to the Spanish conquest, people could create this drink thanks to European techniques to make wine. Although most people, and of course Peruvians think that Pisco originated in Peru, still there are some voices.
Chile, Peru’s southern neighboring country claims that the origin of Pisco belongs to them, stating that they have the origin denomination of the drink. However this heated debate raises questions among people, why is the origin of this drink important for Peruvians?
Does it matter if the pisco is Chilean or Peruvian? And, the most important question is, Is it Peruvian or Chilean? Stay with us to find all the answers!
The grape arrives in Peru
From 1532 to 1580, over 700 settlements, including cities, towns, and villages, were established in Peru. Each resident got a plot of land for their home and for farming and livestock. Among the crops introduced immediately were the “fruits of Castile,” including grapes.
By 1550, chronicles reported grape cultivation in various regions of Peru, particularly along the coast. Around 1560, locally produced wines, described as good to very good, were being traded. By the end of the 16th century, locals shipped grape brandy (aguardiente de uva) through the port of Pisco.
In the 17th century, both wine and pisco reached high levels of distinction. However, a combination of social and environmental factors led to a decline in their production. The mid-20th century saw a revitalization of Peru’s wine and pisco industries. Viticulturists focused on improving quality first and then expanding the wine-growing regions.
Pisco’s name
Long before the Spaniards invaded Peru, locals called “pisku” or “pisko” a tiny kind of bird that inhabited the Nazca and Pisco valley area, in the Ica department. In this area, the ancient pre-Columbian Nazca Culture were experts in ceramics and pottery.
One distinctive Nazca cultural creation was spacious and circular clay-made containers, called “piskos.” For generations, people used these vessels to contain liquids, such as alcohol. Eventually, these piskos also contained the drink that we’ll know as pisco.
The Pisco-Making Process
To start, a team of people carefully selects specific types of grapes. Next, they carry out the entire biochemical process in large vats. Here, they add various ingredients, and during the alcoholic fermentation stage, extract the natural sugars from the grapes.
This process may take up to seven days, keeping a close eye on the temperature. An interesting fact is that it takes around seven kilos of grapes to produce just one liter of pisco. After the distillation process, where makers adjust the rhythm heat, and aromas, the liquid must rest for at least three months before we bottle it.
What Chile Says
Just like Peruvians, Chileans also have a strong connection to pisco, celebrating its cultural importance and the Elqui Valley, a key production area. This claim has sparked debates for ages, but let’s see how Chileans support their claim to pisco with several points:
Legal Protections and Designations: Since 1931, Chile has officially recognized pisco as a denomination of origin (DO). Only certain northern regions, like Coquimbo and Atacama, can produce it. This legal status helps strengthen Chile’s connection to pisco.
Historical Vineyard Expansion: Chileans often note that Spanish colonizers brought grapevines to Chile and Peru. They believe this shared history makes it hard to determine exactly where Pisco was first made.
Cultural Integration: Pisco is an important part of Chilean life. Popular drinks like piscola and pisco sour are enjoyed by many, reinforcing the idea that pisco is a key part of Chilean culture.
However, the name “pisco” comes from the Peruvian port city of Pisco. There, the spirit was first distilled in the 16th century. Peru has strong historical evidence and its own origin denomination regulations that date back even earlier than Chile’s.
History and origin
Before Pisco’s rise, the wine flourished on Peruvian coasts, a Spanish priest called Father Joseph de Acosta praised its quality in his book “The Natural and Moral History of the Indies”. He cited the Andes and Humboldt Current as geological features that created unique conditions for viticulture.
Regarding Pisco production, the earliest reference we thought until last year comes from a document by Pedro Manuel “The Greek,” dated April 30, 1613. In this document, he listed his belongings, including “thirty Burney jars full of aguardiente,” which is about 160 large bottles.
He also mentioned an extra barrel of aguardiente, adding 30 more bottles to his collection. Additionally, he described his equipment, as a large copper pot used for making brandy. This important document was discovered by Peruvian historian Lorenzo Huertas, making it one of the oldest sources about pisco in Peru.
Around the same time, Pedro León Portocarrero visited Peru and shared his observations. He noted the local grapes and wine, praising the quality of the wine. He remarked that “they make a ton of brandy in Peru, and it’s really good.” Argentinian historian Boleslao Lewin first published these insightful notes, which have been shared more recently by Ricardo Palma University.
Documents Confirming Pisco’s Peruvian Origins
In July 2024, Peruvian historians announced the discovery of two unpublished manuscripts from 1587 and 1589. These ancient documents show that Peru produced and traded grape brandy in the 16th century. These important findings strengthen Peru’s claim as the birthplace of pisco.
Historian Julio Hernández has been at the forefront of this investigation. He and his team carefully examined notarial records from 1568 to 1598, revealing important details about the tools, contracts, and people involved in pisco production. These are the ancient documents that reveal details about Peruvian Pisco:
Payment Deed Between Manuel de Azante and Jorge Capelo (1587)
This document describes a business disagreement between two partners. It mentions the delivery of stills and grape brandy as part of their shared inventory. This serves as early proof of distilled spirits production in the Pisco region, showing how important it was for the economy.
Partnership Agreement Between Juan Corzo and Andrea Candia (1589)
This record outlines a business deal for trading wine and grape brandy from the port of Magdalena de Pisco. It highlights the region’s key role in maritime commerce during that time.
Last Will and Testament of Manuel de Azante (1605)
This testament includes an inventory that lists important materials for grape brandy production, focusing on stills. This highlights their crucial role in the distillation process.
Last Will and Testament of Pedro Manuel “El Griego” (1613)
This document shares details about the production, trade, and storage of grape brandy in the Viceroyalty of Peru. It helps us understand the commercial importance of pisco during this period. These historical records not only support the idea that pisco originated in Peru but also provide a glimpse into its cultural and economic significance in colonial times.
Unesco Recognition
The Peruvian government submitted these official documents to Unesco, and on December 4, The Regional Committee for Latin America and the Caribbean of UNESCO announced that they officially recognized the Peruvian origin of Pisco, thanks to the manuscripts dating 1587 and 1617, which were discovered this year.
This Unesco program has the mission to preserve and share mankind’s documentary heritage. Thanks to this program, Unesco allows people access to these ancient and significant data, even in digital formats. This recognition honors Pisco’s rich history and global cultural impact. We’re excited about the positive impact this will have on promoting Peru’s unique heritage!
And the Pisco is…
We have countless reasons to believe that Pisco is proudly Peruvian. For us Peruvians, pisco is much more than a drink is the symbol of our ancient and vast culture, and is also the symbol of “Peruanidad,” or Peruvian identity.
Whether in Peru or abroad, get a Pisco, the only Peruvian pisco to celebrate. Viagens Machu Picchu invites you too to discover Pisco and its variations.
On our Ruta del Pisco tour or Queirolo Vineyard tour, we invite you to discover the taste, importance, and versatility of our national spirit.
Contact our experts to learn more about our culture, traditions, and everything that our beautiful country provides. We’re waiting for you!
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