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History of Some Streets in Cusco Part II

Probably Cusco is the most cultural, and influential city in the whole of Peru, thanks to that in the past it was the former hub of the Inca Empire. Cusco still is a cultural hub, and you can realize that on its attractions, museums, and streets, our today’s blog’s topic.

This article is a follow-up to our first blog about the history of some streets in Cusco. Let’s see some curious, bizarre, and fascinating stories about Cusco’s charming streets, and why they enrich and emphasize our knowledge. Let’s dive in.

Angel Carreño’s Work Importance

Cusco streets are filled with intriguing names that tell stories of the city’s rich history and diverse cultures. Ángel Carreño, a well-known historian from Cusco, revealed important information in his book “Origen de los nombres del Cuzco Colonial”.

This well-organized book is a great tool for locals, researchers, and visitors. It shows that every street name in Cusco has a purpose and a story. Many names come from the colonial period, but others date back to the “Tawantinsuyo” era and have roots in Quechua or even Aymara. 

In his book, Carreño categorizes Cusco’s streets based on their origins. For example, Marianological names like “Carmen Alto” and “La Merced” streets reference Mary, the mother of Jesus. Hagiographical names such as “San Cristóbal” and “Santa Clara” streets honor saints and religious sites.

Angel Carreño’s book, 2021 revisited edition.

 Devotional names point to religious practices, with streets like “Alabado” and “Tres Cruces”. Some names, like “Calle Almagro”, come from important figures in colonial history. Other categories include names that highlight features, such as “Resbalosa“ (slippery) and “Pikchuk’uchu” (corner of the hill).

 Evocative names remind us of events or feelings, like “Amargura” (bitterness) and “Triunfo” (triumph). We find both cautious names, like “Ataúd” (coffin) and “Purgatorio” (Purgatory), and playful ones, like Abracitos (little hugs). Streets like “Plateros” and “ Portal de Carnes” show the trades that were once important there.

The names also celebrate the local wildlife and plants, some of them include phytotoponyms like “De la Coca” and “Arrayán”. Some streets have zoonotic names, such as “Amaruqhata” (Amaru’s terrace) and “Siete Culebras” (seven snakes). Some street names like Siete Angelitos (Seven Little Angels) and Siete Culebras (Seven Little Snakes)  have mystical meanings.

Cusco’s Streets History

Fierro

This street is closely related to the Spanish conquestThe story says that Nicanor Ferro was a cruel Spanish “encomendero”. An “encomendero” was a colonizer who participated in the “encomienda”, a system where Spaniards were in charge of “indoctrinating” and “educating” Indigenous people. 

La Encomienda aimed to create a partnership, as the encomendero would receive labor, tribute, or goods from Indigenous communities. In return, they had to protect these communities and guide them, especially in Christianity.

 Some encomenderos prioritized their wealth over their duties, just like Ferro, who had 4 properties and 2 barns on this street. Later, there was a slight change from “Ferro” to Fierro (iron), which is what people call the street today.

Heladeros

Originally, this street had another name, “Qquilli”, a Quechua term related to a bird, due to a flock formed in roof houses. Later, a Cusco woman, Ines de Rivera, along with his old husband, Daniel Estarvitan set up two ice cream shops.

Locals at that time called “chiri negocios” or “ negocios del frio”, which means “cold businesses”, both terms related to the ice cream shops. Later, this street received the curious name “heladeros” (Ice cream vendor in english, which is kinda fun, isn’t it?) 

Although there are no ice cream shops around, if you want to eat ice cream on Ice Cream Vendor Street, you can do it in some cafes nearby.

Plateros

In 1769, the city council recorded the street under the name “Calle de la Platería” (Silversmith Street). Historian Horacio Villanueva notes that there is no proof of silversmith workshops in this area. However, Ángel Carreño argues that the street earned its name because it became a hub for master silversmiths.

 Notable silversmiths worked in this area, such as Quintín de Alonso, Cosme de la Vega, Diego de Peralta, and Javier de Urribarry y Vascones. 

From then until the late colonial era, the street was known as “Calle de las Platerías,”  but now, people call it “Plateros Street”.

Plateros Street is next to the main square, and it’s a vibrant venue in Cusco’s downtown. Although you can find some silverware shops, there are restaurants, pubs, and places where you can discover the nightlife in Cusco.

Saphy

One key feature of Inca design is the balance between nature and spirituality. You can see this balance on Saphy Street, one of Cusco’s most famous streets, called after the Saphy River, which followed its flow. The river’s waters flowed gracefully from the east and north. 

The Incas cherished this river for bringing purity and renewal to their city and people. It’s interesting to note that in Quechua, “Saphi” means “root” or “origin,” which shows that this street was Cusco’s gateway and a vital source of life that supported Inca farming and spiritual practices. 

Saphy Street, almost 100 years ago.

This river marked the boundary between Hanan and Hurin Cusco, the city’s upper part and lower part respectively.   The Saphi River also joined with other rivers to create the Watanay River, nourishing the surrounding terraces.

In 1548, the Spanish transformed the river into a street by covering it with stone arches, altering its original look. Yet, the Saphi River still holds deep symbolic meaning.

Saphy Street in the current day.

Overall, the Saphi River has been a vital part of Inca duality beliefs, symbolizing life, health, and spiritual renewal. 

Even though its physical form has changed, its cultural significance continues to thrive today. You can see inca walls, colonial houses, and cobblestone paths on this street. When in Cusco, we encourage you to take a walk around.

 Procuradores

This street once housed the “Procuradores de la Real Audiencia del Cusco” during colonial times. The “Ruindad de Compadre” connects it to the Cathedral Plaza. Today, Procuradores Street bustles with tourists, travel agencies, restaurants, and shops cater to them. 

At night, it becomes a notorious hub for nightlife in Cusco. “Procu,” as some people call this street, once was a spot for illegal activities in Cusco, as disguised individuals offering drugs, robbers, and lots of drunk people.

 After the pandemic, authorities have noticed the influence of these acts, that’s why you can see security guards, and even police walking around this street by night. If you want to have a good time and enjoy the nightlife in Cusco, “Procu” could be your best bet.

Purgatorio

This street has a strong religious influence, and its story is quite fascinating. In 1640, Clotilde, a kind-hearted young woman, became an orphan after losing her mother and brother. Left vulnerable, she became the target of Doña Servanda Gómez, an ambitious woman who schemed for her son Joaquín to marry Clotilde and inherit her wealth. 

Finally, both get married, however, Clotilde only had her family home on Huaynapata Street, while Joaquín and his mother subjected Clotilde to years of mistreatment. After Doña Servanda’s death, Joaquín descended into despair, losing his job and further abusing Clotilde. 

To stay financially stable, Joaquín devised a chilling ruse: dressing as a ghostly figure with a flaming pot and a donation box, he haunted Cusco’s streets, collecting alms under the guise of a restless soul seeking redemption. His eerie appearances terrified locals, earning the alley the name “Purgatory Street.”

Joaquín’s life unraveled further after the devastating earthquake of 1650. He lost his home, health, and wife, Clotilde, becoming a paralyzed and penniless shadow of his former self. Locals saw his suffering as karmic justice for his cruelty, believing he was living his purgatory on Earth. 

Marques

 This is a vibrant street in Cusco that connects directly to the main square. Marques has become a favorite spot for both locals and visitors, and it has a fascinating history that dates back to Inca times. In the days of the Tahuantinsuyo, this street was the main entrance to Huacaypata, which we now call the Plaza Mayor. 

This area has beautiful houses, one is the home of the Marqués de San Lorenzo de Valleumbroso, which it’s a National Monument today.  While he played an important role in the area, he is also remembered for his harsh leadership, which adds complexity to Cusco’s rich history.

Currently, this historic mansion is home to the University of Art named after famous Cusqueño painter, Diego Quispe Tito. Marques Street also has stores, restaurants, cafes, and shops where you can find the best of Cusco and Peru’s handicrafts.

Tullumayo

This ancient and popular street in the city was called after the Tullumayo River, or “River of Bones” in the Quechua language. It used to flow through the heart of Cusco’s historic center. Alongside the Saphy River, it shaped the valley where the Incas established their royal palaces.

The Ancent Tullumayo Street.

The Tullumayo River starts at Sacsayhuamán Hill,  flowing down through Sapantiana, along what we now call Choquechaka Street and Tullumayo Avenue. In the Inca Empire times, people built stone walls to guide the river’s flow, and many of those walls are still standing today. 

The river was a natural border between the San Blas and San Cristóbal neighborhoods, linked by about fourteen bridges. In the early 20th century, urban modernization efforts buried and rerouted the river as it flowed to the Pumacchupan area. 

Today’s Tullumayo Street

There, it joins the Saphy River, now underground under Avenida El Sol.  The name “Tullumayo” reflects the river’s important role in this historic area. Later, the Mercedarian catholic order owned the land around Tullumayo Street.

 This shows how cultural and spiritual influences have shaped the region over time. Today, the story of the Tullumayo River is still closely linked to the history and growth of Cusco, reminding us of Cusco’s rich heritage.


Conclusion

As you see, Cusco’s streets are filled with stories, legends, mysteries, and fascination. On your next trip to Cusco, the former capital of the Empire, we invite you to explore these streets and wander through their cobblestone paths.

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